Chanel’s Blazy Debuts Daring Collection Under Celestial Display

Chanel unveiled an ambitious new collection during Paris Fashion Week on October 2, 2023, marking the debut of its new creative director, Matthieu Blazy. The show opened under a stunning display of celestial bodies, including a striking representation of Saturn, creating an atmosphere of theater that captivated attendees from the start. The event featured a reflective runway that enhanced the visual spectacle, with a star-studded front row, including notable figures like Nicole Kidman and Marion Cotillard.

The evening concluded with a standing ovation, underscoring the excitement surrounding Blazy’s vision. As Anna Wintour, the influential editor of Vogue, remarked, “fashion needs its showmen,” and Chanel showcased a commanding presence once again. Founded in 1910, the brand has consistently reshaped women’s fashion, moving from corseted silhouettes to a modern, chic aesthetic that remains relevant today.

Blazy’s debut was not merely a change of designer but a critical examination of how a century-old fashion house continues to resonate with contemporary audiences. This season has already seen several high-profile debuts, including Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga and Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta. Yet, Chanel’s moment stood out for its grand scale and artistic ambition.

The collection emphasized theatricality while maintaining the brand’s iconic codes. Blazy sought to reinvigorate Chanel’s signature styles without falling into nostalgia. The opening look—a bold androgynous pantsuit—featured low-slung trousers paired with an asymmetric jacket, echoing styles from Virginie Viard, who departed Chanel last year, and paying homage to the late Karl Lagerfeld.

Blazy’s designs were not a simple reinvention of Chanel’s hallmark tweed but rather a reinterpretation through the lens of the founder’s history, particularly her relationship with Boy Capel. The collection reinstated the freedom Chanel once offered women, symbolized by the inclusion of trousers and pockets.

Months in the making, the Spring 2026 collection served as an imagined dialogue between Blazy and the legacy of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. The designer took calculated risks by simplifying embellishments—removing ribbons and minimizing sparkle—to create a silhouette-focused presentation that emphasized feathers and the camellia, a consistent motif throughout the collection.

Despite the minimalist sparkle, the designs remained unmistakably Chanel. The tweed was presented in a multicultural palette and weave, reflecting a broader, more inclusive approach. Accessories played a vital role, with oversized hats, metallic bags, and statement jewelry complementing the garments. One particularly notable handbag was an egg-shaped clutch that added a playful touch to the collection.

The finale featured a striking look: a silky short-sleeve shirt paired with a vibrant feathered skirt that trailed elegantly behind. This captivating display of color and texture left viewers in awe. Filmmaker Sofia Coppola, attending the show, expressed her excitement, stating, “It was such a surprise… It’s exciting to be here for a new era.”

Blazy’s debut at Chanel not only showcased his artistic vision but also reinforced the brand’s commitment to innovation while honoring its storied heritage. As the fashion world watches, the stakes remain high for Blazy, who must navigate the legacy of a house that has long been synonymous with style and sophistication.