Discover Southern Italian Flavors with La Cucina di Terroni

Toronto’s culinary scene embraces southern Italian cuisine through the newly released cookbook, La Cucina di Terroni, by restaurateur Cosimo Mammoliti and food writer Meredith Erickson. This collection features recipes that showcase the rich flavors of Italy, including popular dishes such as funghi assoluti (baked oyster mushroom salad), rigatoni arcobaleno (rainbow rigatoni), and panzerotti (fried pizza pockets).

Mammoliti, who co-founded Terroni in 1992 alongside his late partner Paolo Scoppio, draws inspiration from his Italian heritage. Having grown up in Toronto to parents from Calabria, Mammoliti is deeply connected to the traditions of southern Italy. The first Terroni location opened on Queen Street, evolving from a modest Italian food shop into a renowned restaurant group with multiple locations, including one in Los Angeles.

When discussing the cookbook, Mammoliti expresses pride in the consistent quality of his dishes. “People come and they have a (pizza) San Giorgio. They have spaghetti al limone. They don’t even look at the menu,” he remarks, highlighting the emotional connection patrons have to the food. The restaurant serves over 1,000 customers daily, a testament to its popularity and the challenge of maintaining authenticity.

Tradition and authenticity remain central to Mammoliti’s philosophy. He emphasizes the importance of using high-quality ingredients sourced directly from Italy, including olive oil and flour. “I know what I’m putting on the table,” he asserts, underscoring his commitment to quality. His relationships with producers, such as those in the Marche region, reflect his dedication to preserving culinary traditions.

Mammoliti’s upbringing in a traditional Italian household further shaped his culinary journey. His father made wine and his mother baked bread and cured olives. These familial practices have influenced the recipes in La Cucina di Terroni, with dishes like his father’s sausage and his mother’s biscotti making an appearance. He recalls, “Those are things that are disappearing,” acknowledging the significance of maintaining these culinary legacies.

As the author of his first cookbook, Mammoliti is excited to share his family’s recipes and the essence of southern Italian cooking. He notes that he has always been fascinated by Italy and its culinary heritage. His first trip to Italy at age 16 deepened this connection, leading him to pursue a career in the restaurant industry.

In the kitchen, Mammoliti collaborates with his team, including executive chef Giovanna Alonzi and head baker Luca Rotatori, to create dishes that reflect their commitment to craftsmanship. They prepare panzerotti every Friday, maintaining a tradition that has become a staple at Terroni. “We make everything. The pasta’s made fresh every day,” he says, emphasizing the hands-on approach that defines the restaurant.

The cookbook features a variety of recipes that are accessible for home cooks. The following recipes highlight the delightful flavors of southern Italy:

Funghi Assoluti (Baked Oyster Mushroom Salad)

This signature dish showcases the earthy flavor of oyster mushrooms, combined with garlic, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and arugula.

*Ingredients:*
– 1/2 garlic clove, minced
– 1/2 cup (120 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
– 1 1/4 lb (560 g) oyster mushrooms
– Fine sea salt
– 3/4 cup (80 g) dried bread crumbs
– 3/4 cup (80 g) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
– 7 oz (200 g) arugula
– 1/3 cup (80 mL) balsamic vinegar

*Instructions:*
1. Preheat the oven to 260°C (500°F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Whisk the garlic into the olive oil and lightly grease the parchment with one-third of the oil.
3. Prepare the mushrooms and spread them on the baking sheet, drizzling with oil and seasoning with salt. Top with breadcrumbs and half the Parmigiano.
4. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes until crispy.
5. Serve on a bed of arugula, drizzled with remaining oil and balsamic vinegar.

Rigatoni Arcobaleno (Rainbow Rigatoni)

This vibrant dish features seasonal vegetables and fresh buffalo mozzarella.

*Ingredients:*
– Fine sea salt
– 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
– 1/2 cup (120 g) minced shallots
– 1 lb (450 g) zucchini, sliced
– 2 cups (300 g) halved cherry tomatoes
– 2/3 cup (150 g) hand-crushed canned peeled plum tomatoes
– Freshly ground black pepper
– 1 lb (500 g) rigatoni
– 1/2 cup (50 g) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
– 1 (9-oz/250-g) ball mozzarella di bufala
– Fresh basil leaves for garnish

*Instructions:*
1. Boil salted water for the pasta.
2. Sauté shallots in olive oil until translucent. Add zucchini, then cherry tomatoes, and crushed tomatoes. Simmer.
3. Cook rigatoni to al dente, then combine with the sauce, adding cheese and basil.
4. Serve garnished with mozzarella and fresh basil.

Panzerotti (Fried Pizza Pockets)

These delightful fried treats are filled with a mixture of tomatoes and cheese.

*Ingredients:*
– 1.5 kg pizza dough
– 1 (14-oz/397-g) can whole peeled tomatoes
– 1/2 cup (50 g) grated Grana Padano cheese
– 2 cups (400 g) chopped mozzarella cheese
– 10 fresh basil leaves, chopped
– Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
– Sunflower oil for frying

*Instructions:*
1. Prepare and proof the dough.
2. Mix filling ingredients and portion into the dough rounds.
3. Fry in oil until golden brown.

Mammoliti’s passion for his roots and commitment to authenticity shines through in La Cucina di Terroni. The cookbook not only offers a taste of southern Italy but also serves as a reminder of the importance of preserving culinary traditions in today’s fast-paced world. For those looking to recreate these beloved dishes at home, the cookbook is a treasure trove of flavor and history.