NAC Welcomes Peter Hum as First Resident Chef in Culinary Milestone

The National Arts Centre (NAC) has appointed Peter Hum as its first resident chef, marking a significant expansion of the culinary program that highlights emerging talent across Canada. Hum’s role diverges from traditional restaurant criticism; he is tasked with providing valuable insights and suggestions to refine dishes before they launch at the NAC’s restaurant, 1 Elgin. This novel approach allows him to act as a consultant rather than a conventional food critic.

On the first Monday of January, Hum sat down with Kenton Leier, the NAC’s executive chef, and Connor McQuay, the executive sous chef, to sample an array of dishes scheduled to debut shortly. The tasting included unique offerings such as tuna crudo, beef tartare, roast pork belly, and various soups and desserts. These dishes are set to enhance the dining experience for patrons attending theatre and orchestra performances.

During the tasting, Hum provided immediate feedback, suggesting enhancements such as adjusting seasoning in the tuna crudo and exploring different condiment pairings for the pork belly. His involvement stems from a collaborative effort initiated last summer, where he met with the NAC chefs to brainstorm menu ideas that reflect his culinary heritage and experiences, including a recent trip to China.

This residency is particularly historic as Hum is the first non-chef to occupy this position since the program’s inception in 2019. He is also the first Chinese-Canadian to hold this esteemed role. Hum expressed pride in the fact that many dishes on the menu are inspired by his family history and his culinary experiences in Hong Kong and China, as well as his upbringing in Nepean, Ontario.

Connecting Culinary Heritage with Contemporary Dining

Hum’s culinary journey is deeply intertwined with his family’s legacy. His grandfather emigrated from Soon On Lee in Guangdong Province in 1900 and established one of Ottawa’s first Chinese-run businesses. This connection to his roots profoundly shapes his culinary perspective. Hum’s menu at 1 Elgin will draw upon traditional dishes, such as wonton noodle soup, which he considers a personal favorite.

Despite his enthusiasm, Hum admits to some insecurity regarding the inclusion of wonton soup on the fine-dining menu. He recalls the historical context of the dish, tracing its presence in Ottawa back to the 1960s. The first mention of wonton soup in a local review highlighted its mediocrity, fueling Hum’s determination to elevate the dish. He is working closely with the NAC chefs to ensure the wontons are made with shrimp and to maintain authentic flavors, reminiscent of his mother’s cooking.

The NAC gala dinner on January 29, 2024, will further showcase Hum’s culinary vision, featuring dishes that reflect an East-meets-West philosophy. Hum aims to introduce elements like tangerines in the tuna crudo, drawing inspiration from their significance in Chinese culture, where they symbolize good fortune and family unity.

A Culinary Celebration of Family and Tradition

Hum’s recent journey back to his ancestral village culminated in a large family gathering that celebrated their heritage and connection to the land. This experience resonated with him as he prepares for the gala dinner, which he likens to a village party in its spirit of community and celebration.

The anticipation surrounding the gala is palpable, with many of Hum’s relatives planning to attend. He hopes that the event will not only highlight the flavors of his cultural background but also foster a sense of togetherness akin to the family reunion held in China.

Feedback from the recent tastings has been promising, with NAC’s food and beverage general manager, Nelson Borges, noting that empty plates are a positive indicator of the dishes’ reception. As the first resident chef, Hum is committed to honoring his family’s culinary traditions while also pushing boundaries and creating a dining experience that resonates with a diverse audience.

In a city known for its vibrant culinary scene, Hum’s residency at the NAC represents a fusion of history and innovation, inviting patrons to celebrate not only the flavors of his dishes but also the rich stories behind them.