Sisters Fight to Preserve Toronto’s Oldest Hakka Restaurant

UPDATE: Sisters Jeanette and Joanna Liu are on a mission to save Yueh Tung, Toronto’s oldest Hakka restaurant, from the brink of closure. Located at the bustling intersection of Elizabeth Street and Dundas Street West, the restaurant is fighting to remain a cornerstone of Toronto’s Old Chinatown amidst rising costs and changing demographics.

As of October 2023, the Liu sisters are not just preserving a family legacy; they are battling to keep alive a culinary tradition that has defined their family for decades. Their parents founded Yueh Tung in 1986, navigating challenges as immigrants from Kolkata, India. It was a dream to succeed that has transcended generations.

On any given day, the aroma of bold and spicy flavors fills the air as Jeanette serves customers, many of whom have been loyal since the 1980s. Meanwhile, Joanna, the head chef and one of Toronto’s few female wok chefs, prepares traditional dishes, ensuring that every meal is served in under two minutes. “This restaurant means more to us than just being a family business. It’s literally another part of the family,” Jeanette states.

Yueh Tung’s journey began with a humble offering: lobster at just $16.95 and free samples of their now-iconic chili chicken. These early marketing strategies turned passersby into loyal customers, establishing the restaurant as a beloved local staple.

“Our dad would stand on the street corner giving away free samples of his chili chicken, in hopes that it would take off, which it did,” Jeanette recalls.

The significance of Hakka cuisine cannot be understated. It reflects the resilience of a displaced community, blending traditional Chinese recipes with South Asian spices to create a unique culinary identity. Despite initial skepticism within the Chinese community, Yueh Tung quickly became a gathering place for cultural connection and nostalgia.

However, the restaurant now faces unprecedented challenges. With their parents aging and unable to maintain the demanding hours, Jeanette and Joanna were faced with a critical decision: continue their parents’ legacy or let it fade away. “Rent was rising, the neighborhood was changing, and the weight of running a decades-old family business felt heavier than ever,” Joanna explained.

With a loyal staff of 17 and the community’s unwavering support, the sisters have taken the reins, determined to adapt while preserving their family’s culinary traditions. Joanna was recently honored with the Chinese Hakka Cuisine Golden Delicacy Award from the Asian Culinary Arts Association of Canada, a testament to her skill and dedication.

Despite thriving before the COVID-19 pandemic, Yueh Tung faced a tumultuous period during the health crisis. “We went from lineups two times a day during our lunch rush to virtually nothing,” Jeanette lamented. The pandemic brought financial strain and a wave of racism, but community support emerged as a lifeline.

“It was our regular customers that kept us going,” Jeanette shared. In the wake of adversity, the sisters utilized social media to share their story, connecting with supporters and reigniting interest in their restaurant.

As they approach their 40th anniversary, the Liu sisters remain committed to keeping Yueh Tung alive. They are not just preserving a restaurant; they are honoring their parents’ sacrifices and solidifying their place in Toronto’s rich cultural tapestry. “We want to carry it forward… for ourselves, the family, our customers, our staff, our community,” Jeanette stated.

With the spirit of resilience and hope, Jeanette and Joanna Liu are redefining what it means to carry on a legacy, ensuring that the flavors of Yueh Tung continue to resonate in Toronto for years to come.

As they navigate the complexities of urban renewal and cultural preservation, all eyes are on the Liu sisters and their fight to keep one of Toronto’s last pillars of Old Chinatown alive. Stay tuned for updates on their journey and the future of Yueh Tung.